Ahh, Rioja. One of the grand wines of the world, the best examples of this marvel from Spain age effortlessly for decades, gaining complexity and elegance. Actually, almost all good quality Rioja will do that, and the beauty is you do not have to spend a lot to get it. It is, easily, one of the greatest values available in the wine world, especially if you like aged wines. The quality to price ratio is kind of ridiculous.
Classic Rioja is primarily made with Tempranillo, with a few other grapes completing the blend. These include Graciano and Mazuelo. Today more and more wines seem to be 100% Tempranillo. I tend to prefer the old school versions, but it is a close race, and the newer, more modern Rioja is excellent in its own right.
Red Rioja (yes – there is white Rioja and it is also excellent) is made in a series of quality levels. There is Joven, or “young” Rioja, which is less complex and meant to be consumed early in its life. After that the designation indicates how long the wine is aged in barrel and bottle prior to release. Crianza must be aged in barrel for 12 months and a total of 24 months prior to release. Reserva wines are in barrel for a minimum of 12 months and 36 months total. Gran Reserva wines, the highest designation, see at least 18 month in barrel and a total of 5 years of aging before they are sold. They range from fruity and forward to sublime as the longer aging times come into play. The better producers can be quite pricey at the Gran Reserva level, and there are special bottles to be sure, but they still tend to be great values when considering the quality.
In this article we have two wines for review and consideration, and they are from very different ends of the Rioja spectrum. One is a Reserva and the other a Gran Reserva, but it is the price point that really sets them apart. Here they are:
Wine: 2017 Kirkland Signature Reserva Rioja
Winery Location: Rioja, Spain
Tasted By: Neil & Cheri Date: May 2022
Tasting Notes: The juice is 100% Tempranillo, is a medium ruby in color and transparent. An elegant nose displays raspberry, cherry, orange peel and leather. It is medium+ in body, with a nice fruit core accented by herbal notes. Good balance, firm tannins and a nice long finish round out a pretty solid wine. The label shown is from our review sample – this is not what you’ll see in the store!
Price Point – $7.99 – which is not a typo and pretty much insane.
Would We Buy It? – by the case, which is what we recommend. This is an incredible value. It’s not the best red Rioja Reserva in the world, but it is pretty darned good.
and now the second:
Wine: 2012 Muriel Viñas Viejas Gran Reserva
Winery Location: Rioja, Spain
Tasted By: Neil & Cheri Date: May 2022
Tasting Notes: Also 100% Tempranillo, the wine is a medium ruby in color. The nose here takes it up a notch in complexity. You get red fruit, vanilla, caramel, leather, herbs and some spice too. On the palate it is medium bodied, and silky smooth. Our only complaint is it lacks a touch of depth, but it is delicious and represents a pretty classic Rioja profile. It finishes long.
Price Point – $29.99
Would We Buy It? – Yes, this is fairly priced.
These two wines are a great example of what Rioja has to offer, and what an amazing value it can represent. The first wine, available at Costco, is just a ridiculous value. It has fruit, complexity and some elegance, and is really just a baby that will age well for another 5-10 years.
The second wine is a pretty classic Gran Reserva, with a bounty of complex aromas and flavors. It is not as deep as some, but has everything else. Here the price is about what it should be for an aged, quality wine from an excellent producer.
If you aren’t familiar with the wines from Rioja then you should definitely try some. That goes for the whites as well, and we’ll try and review one or two of those soon.
A votre santé!
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