Unusual and Excellent Whites from the Alentejo Region of Portugal, and the Antao Vaz Grape

A few months ago we did a feature article on red wine from the Alentejo region of Portugal, which you can read about by clicking here.  This is my favorite area for Portuguese wines, however I must admit almost all of my tasting experience has been with the red wines.  We recently had an opportunity to review four white wines from the region, and were pleasantly surprised at the quality and complexity they offered.  This is a hot climate, and not a place you would generally think of producing balanced white wine.  Yet it does.

The Antão Vaz grape is a staple in the white wines here, either on its own, or more frequently in a blend.  This is one of the most prized varieties of the Alentejo, and is well suited to the high temperatures, producing wines that can range from lighter and lively to higher alcohol and structured.  As seen below, it is often blended with Roupeiro, as well as other grapes.

Here are the four wines we tried, and our impressions:

2017 Herdade do Rocim Mariana Branco –  this is light, greenish yellow in color.  The nose is reminiscent of Alvarinho, albeit with a less exuberant fruit profile.  There is grapefruit, lychee, peach, pineapple and a fennel note to provide a bit of added complexity.  This has very good balance from the cleansing acid.  There is a nice texture to the wine, and some minerality on the back of the palate which leads into the long, citrus framed finish.  Checking in at 12.5% alcohol, this is a refreshing wine with a lot going on.  At an SRP of $13, it is hard to beat from a value perspective.  Really quite good, it is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Alvarinho.

2016 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Antão Vaz da Peceguina – this is 100% Antão Vaz, and sees only stainless steel during vinification.  A light, but richly hued, golden yellow color leads to a big nose of tropical fruit.  There is ripe citrus, and anise, as well as black currant bud undertones.  On the palate it is clean, with some structure and texture.  It finishes very long, with refreshing orange at the end.  This is unusual and distinctive, and a great value at $12.

2018 Fita Preta Branco – this is a blend of Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Antão Vaz, Tamarez, Alicante Branco and Arinto.  Pale straw in color, it sports a very complex nose of herbal notes, including fennel and anise, lychee fruit and other citrus.  It has noticeable minerality on the palate, good texture, acid and balance, and stays perfectly clean throughout the very long finish.  This is a classy white wine.  Alcohol is moderate at 13%.  The most expensive of this group at $22, but very much worth it.

2017 Herdade do Esporao Monte Velho – from a vintage of lower yields but higher concentration, this wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum.  The color is a brilliant light yellow.  A nose of white peach and pear is distinctively different than the previous three wines, and the ripe citrus and tropical fruit tones are nowhere to be found.  The palate would be best described as vivid.  It is very long.  This is a big white wine at 14.5% alcohol, but it works well.  This is exceptional value at $12.

The white wines from the Iberian Peninsula offer a great chance to experience different aroma and flavor profiles.  While I have long known that about Spain, these white wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal expand the landscape and the range of options.  There is never a shortage of new, exciting wines to try.  That’s a very good thing.

A votre santé!

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