Visit to Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in the Finger Lakes

We introduced my short trip to the Finger Lakes region in an earlier article (you can read that here), and have already talked about other wineries in detail, those being Prejean Winery and Shaw Vineyard (read about them here and here).  In this article, we’ll cover another standout vineyard and winery on the shores of Seneca Lake, and one of the oldest.  This is Hermann J. Wiemer.

Hermann J. Wiemer emigrated from Germany in the 1960’s.  His mother’s family had been making wine in Germany’s Mosel valley for 300 years, and his father was responsible for restoring vines to the Mosel region after WWII.  Wine was certainly in his blood, and Hermann looked for the right place to establish vinifera grapes, and make world class wines similar to those from his ancestral home.  He found it on the west shore of Seneca Lake, with sloping hillsides, the moderating effect of the large body of water, and gravely soils.  Here he would establish his vineyard.

His first Riesling and Chardonnay vintages won Gold in New York competitions.  He never looked back, and the vineyard and winery have garnered acclaim from wine critics and publications across the world.   Other grapes have entered the picture, and the vineyards have grown (and will grow more).  In 2007, Hermann retired, and his long time apprentice, Fred Merwarth, has taken over the reigns and continues the legacy of excellence.  This is a significant, recognized winery, with the accolades to prove it.  Recently, the Wine Advocate gave Wiemer a slate of 90+ scores.

The new tasting room addition

I was immediately impressed with the tasting rooms and facility.  There is a brand new addition to the tasting rooms, which is elegant and sleek.  We settled in there to run through the wines, and talk about the philosophy, and the variety in the estate vineyards.  All of the wines are estate, except for a small parcel of vineyard which they lease and manage.  The original vineyards, planted in 1976, are still producing and are the source of an exceptional, single vineyard Riesling.  These are surround the production and tasting facility.  Additional vineyards are 10 miles to the north.

The approach to the farming is sustainable, using organic and biodynamic practices.  They do not use herbicides.  One section of the vineyard is completely biodynamically farmed.  It is a commitment to the land

The vineyard map

and the vines, and they are quite serious about it.

If you’re visiting you will appreciate the elegant surrounding, the attentive staff, and the overall quality of the experience.  It is a very modest $8 for a tasting here, and you can sample a range of their wines.  You’ll also appreciate a high quality tasting glass, something more wineries should adopt, instead of the very inexpensive glasses you frequently get, and are welcome or expected to take with you.

I was fortunate in that there were few people on a Thursday afternoon, and I got some dedicated time to walk through their wines.  Here they are.

2013 Brut Rosé– a sparkling wine made in the traditional Method Champenoise, from 100% Pinot Noir, this wine has a velvet nose of delicate fruit.  It is clean and long on the palate and really a wonderfully made wine.  We started with this and it set a wonderful tone right out of the gate.

2013 HJW Vineyard Riesling – from the original estate vineyards planted by Hermann J. Wiemer himself, this is one of three single vineyard Rieslings made here.  The wine is a very light straw color with green highlights.  The nose carries the classic petrol notes.  Also some delicate apple and a bit of peach.  This is linear in its profile, and very long.  The balance is beautiful, and it screams quality.  Fabulous wine, and about as good as any Riesling anywhere.  $39

2014 Josef Vineyard Riesling– the same light straw color, but less of the petrol notes and a little bit of balsam resin on the nose.  This is off dry, and smooth with clean fruit on the palate.  Another wonderfully made wine. $39

There is another single vineyard Riesling, which was out of stock.  That corresponds to the third vineyard area of the estate, Magdalena.  It was a shame, as all three are really needed to fully appreciate the next wine, which is a blend of them.

2017 Dry Riesling – blended from the HJW, Josef, and Magdalena vineyards fruit, this also has the very light straw color prevalent in the Rieslings here.  It is smooth and integrated, but I couldn’t’ reconcile the wine’s profile from the two component vineyards I had tasted.  Seeing what Magdalena had to offer would have helped.  Of course, things change vintage to vintage, so there were a lot of variables in play.  In the end, this is simply a delicious Riesling and a good value at $19.50

2017 HJW Vineyard Riesling – a chance to try a more recent vintage of this wine, and it was quite different than the 2013.  This lacked the same concentration, but was still smooth and delicious.  Not quite up to the 2013 though.

2017 Riesling Semi-Dry – a little more sweetness here than in the Dry Riesling, but still not a sweet wine.  As are all the Wiemer Rieslings, this is smooth, long and clean.  These are all superbly made.  $17.50

2016 Riesling Late Harvest – about 40% of the fruit here saw the Noble Rot, or Botrytis, which is actually a beneficial mold that grows on the grapes in late season.  This concentrates the sugars and allows for a sweeter wine.  This is a pretty classic version, noticeable sugars but still pure flavors and a long finish.  $24.50

2017 Gewurtztraminer – it presents a nose of floral and spice, and a bit of perfume.  This wine had delicate fruit but still amazing depth.  All the parts are visible, and they come together in a beautiful wine.  $25

2017 Chardonnay – about 25% of this is the reserve Chardonnay, which is aged in Hungarian oak.  The remaining 75% is treated in only stainless.  It presents clean, delineated fruit including pear and honeydew.  You do not get the typical tropical fruit basket of many Chardonnays.  It is delicate but substantial.  Another very well made wine. $18.50

2017 Gruner Veltliner – pear and mineral notes.  There is a wet stone  streak running right through this, drawn from slate soils.  I got a distinct aroma of new shoe leather as well. This is a pretty classic version of this wine.  $27

2016 Noble Select – a true late harvest Riesling, this has a rich color, and is definitely a sweet wine.  What is amazing is that is still balanced, with great acid.  In fact, you can pick out the same profile you get in the dryer version, it’s all there inside the rich backdrop.  This is great stuff.

NV Farm Red – this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, Merlot and Petit Verdot.  Saperavi is a dark, tenturier grape native to the country of Georgia, an ancient home of wine making.  This has lots of up front fruit, good tannin and acid, and has some aging potential.  The palate is all about the earth, and dark fruit.  Interesting and quite good.  $18.50

Yes, the Hermann J. Wiemer vineyard and winery is well known and much heralded.  Still, this visit was an eye opener.  These are truly world class wines across the board, and the level of quality here is astounding.  In light of that, the prices are quite reasonable, and I would rate all of the wines in the good value category.  The 2013 HJW Riesling is truly extraordinary.

If you are in the Finger Lakes this is a stop you should not miss.  I may have to have them ship some to North Carolina once the weather turns a bit cooler.

The particulars:

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard
3962 Rte 14
Dundee , NY. 14837
www.wiemer.com

A votre santé!

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